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Praha
Friday, September 17, 2010
Praha A city of yielders, tourists and graffiti artists. I must say that parts of the city are breathtaking, but if I'm being honest Prague will be my least favorite city. The Charles Bridge is an amazing sight, but it is crowded no matter what time you visit it. The Prague castle is large and the gardens are lovely but the paid "tours" are a joke. You don't really get to see that much which is amazing considering its size. The beauty of the city is in the small details. Passing by a building with murals painted along the side and lion handles on the door is lovely. Huge statues on the awnings of hotels give these buildings life and color. But, this is a major tourist destination. The taxis are con artists, making it very clear to me that I am an outsider. The servers here are incredibly rude. Missing in Prague are the lovely hidden nooks in the city that make it livable like Berlin or exciting like Amsterdam. Quite a few stores here don't have prices listed so as the clerk watches you and and sizes up the likelihood of you stealing something, you also get the sense that they are assessing what price you are willing to pay. Don't get me wrong, we have met some lovely people here in the Czech Republic. We have also had some amazing food at the 33 restaurant right down the road from our hotel. But those are rare gems and even they have their tarnishes. I was terribly excited about the cruise down the Vltava river and even that was a disappointment. You really didn't get to see the parts of the city you wanted to, especially since the Charles Bridge is not lighted at night as in the brochure picture. An hour of the three hour tour was spent in the lifts evening out the water, and what a view that was. The astronomical clock was beautiful, but it felt like you were drowning in a sea of tourists if you waited for the on the hour show. Prague likes its crystals and garnets but not all shiny things are created equal so buyer beware. If you want the real feel of Prague, learn Czech first. Maybe then the culture will be more accepting of you. I think for me, I will enjoy Prague most in the pictures, savoring the smallest of its treasures. Saying goodbye to Europe, for now.
The trip to Berlin did not start out as planned. We missed our train (with reservations!) by about 30 seconds! Then, because life never gives you one lemon, the international rail system was down for the day for maintenance. This would have been a nice fact to know BEFORE we waited over an hour for a train that would never come. Four train switches and a 45 minute bus ride later and we were in Berlin! The first thing about Berlin that struck me in the taxi ride to the hotel was that there was room! Room on the streets, sidewalks, even the cars seemed bigger! I realized that the buildings did not appear like they would topple on top of me at any moment and that was comforting! Our first day in Berlin was simply beautiful, perfect weather for a Segway tour. Yes, we were one of those groups of tourists but it was worth it! In four hours, Charles of Berlin showed us all the major sites of the city! Checkpoint Charlie, Richestag, the location of Hitler’s bunker and other amazing sites. Berlin really is a place of history and a rich one at that. The most important part of the tour for me came when I compared the location of Hitler’s bunker and the Monument to the murdered Jews of Europe . There was only a small information tablet to mark the location of Hitler’s bunker. There is a children’s playground where his charred remains once laid. As for the monument, well it’s size is breathtaking. It is literally stone columns that are a dark grey, similar to a grave marker. There are no markings on these stones, no names or dates. Charles explained that what the stones represent is open to interpretation. Some say it resembles a graveyard, others a city. As I walked between the stones, I encountered children and adults playing hide and seek throughout the labyrinth. I realized that how you saw the stones didn’t matter. They are meant to represent something lost and what better way to do that than by living life! I captured an amazing shot of a young German boy jumping from one stone to another and I think it best visualizes the hope and healing that you can feel in between the blank stones. There are several amazing museums in Berlin but having limited time we choose the Pergamon, and that is where I saw the Ishtar gate. What an amazing statement to make! I have my undergraduate degree in History and I can honestly say that I never thought I would be able to make that statement, but there it was before my very eyes. I could have spent hours there and would love to go back. I think the most profound statement I can make about Berlin came from a conversation with our tour guide. Charles explained how German’s were reacting to the issue surrounding the proposal to build a mosque near ground zero. He made the statement that Germany has to be especially careful to avoid any appearance of any sort of prejudice and they are surprised that America would not act the same. We are all about freedom of religion after all. He touched on the psyche of the nation of Germany, a collected acceptance that prejudice will never lead you down a good path. I think this is something missing in American culture, and it saddens me greatly. Yes, we are patriotic. Americans make their tri-colored food every Fourth of July and vote if they are motivated, but we don’t have a true sense of equality. Our reaction to 9/11 was more out of fear than willingness to tolerate. Does it really take the death of millions to finally understand the dangers of irrational fear of “the other”. One final note about Berlin, the city has a plethora of my 2 favorite things: Nutella and beer! They even have Nutella to go, a little treat I picked up for the train ride to Prague. As for the beer, well let’s just say that with them charging for water it was more economical to buy beer! Oh, Berlin I will miss you!
This post will be short because I am in Amsterdam! When we first arrived in Amsterdam, I experienced a shock as we exited the train station and headed toward the city. Trams, trains, bikes, cars and pedestrians all greeted me in a sea of chaos. I have never been so scared and excited in my entire life. As I rolled my luggage in this chaos, I immediately sensed that the people here saw life very differently. There was no southern charm to be found. No smiles as I stared, my eyes screaming HELP! I was one of thousands. I choked backed my tears of fear and kept walking.
Luckily, our hotel was close and the man behind the counter was nice enough. I found him rude at first, but later I realized he was one of the nicer customer service workers I would meet in these low countries. Service is different than it is in the states. You are not a special snowflake that deserves everything your heart desires. I have come to appreciate this attitude toward people, making them earn your respect and help rather than automatically providing it.
I have also learned not to assume things. Sitting in a bar without a drink is rude, entering a coffeeshop without buying something is not tolerated, water is not free, and asking is always better. Back to water for a moment. You would think in a country that allows women of all shapes and sizes to dance in windowed doorways, water would be everywhere. Well it is, but only in the canals. You have to buy it, and with a group of 7 we are doing so by the liter! And then, because they can, you have to pay to use most public bathrooms. We learned that the women that "run" these pay to pee stations are given that job by the government. I guess there are worse jobs to have.
We are a group of 7 visiting this wonderful country and with that comes another set of challenges. I have compared crossing a nearby street to a video game. When we first crossed, we were just avoiding trams, cars, bikes and people. As the weekend progressed tourists with over sized maps were added to the mix. Since then, we have also had to avoid a four foot long musical instrument, a Indian chief in his full dress, scaffolding both against buildings and on the sidewalk and horses! Clearly we have been leveling up!
The train and trams systems here are amazing, something I wish we had in the states. Bikes have their own lanes, and they are quite wide. Bikers are still tempting fate, crossing bridges and canals with only the slightest of glances but it is different than back home(and not just because there are no teenagers driving SUVs). Small children sit in the bikes here, still arguing with their parents of course. It is simply daunting the number of people that flow through this city both on the streets and in the canals.
And with all these people comes noise, so much noise! Our hotel window overlooks a popular Irish pub, sex shop, church and several restaurants and snack stations. One evening while trying to nap after another long day of walking and exploring, our room was filled with the sound of bells. Luckily, this sound lasted for almost an hour. I have also been trained to jump out of the way as quickly as possible when I hear the sound of a bike bell. I fear for my life on a daily basis!
The idea of space here is another way I have had to reorient myself. Our hotel room is the size of a closet, with two twin beds against a wall. I'll post a picture later so you can feel bad for me. The stairs we take up to our room are so narrow and steep that I often find steps directly in my face. This city is not kind to the tall, and I am thankful for my stature! Nathan and Micah are constantly having to duck and are often face to face with doorways. The buildings here also lean, making you feel even more pressured by this city.
It took a few days to get used to all these things, but I have loved all the uncomfortable moments and learning situations! I have discovered so many new things and learned to view life with a different perspective. This is why we went on this trip together, to be more than a few educated 20-somethings from the south. Vondel Park and the Van Gogh museum have challenged my love of nature and art. The Anne Frank museum has reminded me that so many in life have suffered. The Red light distract has shown me a new side of human sexuality and loneliness. The shops have shown me what educated adventurers can really explore! In Amsterdam I have laughed, cried and loved. I have stumbled, summitted and surprised even myself.
That is all for now! Enjoy some sweet tea, water from a fountain and free bathroom visits for me!
